It is too big for plaster and tape, but too small and uneven to cut a piece of drywall. Furthermore, unlike in this questionthere is no wood to fill with plaster.
You could use a piece of inside corner bead and finish it like any other inside drywall corner:. A less aesthetic solution would be to cover the gap with a piece of wood trim and paint it to match the wall. Jimmy's corner bead solution is probably easier and I upvoted it.
The other method is to make a larger, more regular gap by cutting the present drywall and patching it with new drywall cut to fit the new gap. I will also note that this is, IMHO, an incorrect installation - the ceiling drywall should extend to the studs, and the wall drywall should butt up to it, fully supporting the edge. That also allows for errors in the ceiling drywall fitment up to the thickness of the wall drywall without resulting in a visible gap. If you can find a drywall supply house I am a drywall professional and would do that.
There is an extra wide version that you can get if the hole warrants it. All the above answers are correct, However I would just mix some 20 min hot mud really thick just add little of water to the mix then pack it.
This mud wont shrink but may sag a little. Then use a 6" knife and scrape flush with the lid and then tape with a more smoother 40 min hot mud and let that harden then coat it with 40 again. Its important to scrap just before the hot mud is setting, it will be easier to work with.
All ways prefill cracks and butt joints prior to tape. This will eliminate cracking down the road. Although I up voted other answers, the correct thing to do as others have pointed out is to take it down and start again. The ceiling goes on first, going completely across the ceiling with no gaps.
Then do the walls start at the top and working down. The walls should support the drywall ceiling edges by "butting" up against the ceiling pieces. If there is a slight gap where the floor is that is ok bottom of sheet the wood trim will cover it.When two different building materials meet along a joint, there is often a gap between the surfaces as the edges are not flush with each other.
One example of this can be found if you have a wall in your home made of brick or brick veneer. The rough edges of the brick make it almost impossible to form a tight joint between the brick and the drywall of the ceiling. This can be unsightly to look at, as well as having the potential to cause drafts, which can make your home less energy-efficient.
Closing this gap is a basic project that even a novice do-it-yourselfer can complete. Measure the depth of the gap. Measure the length of the gap, and cut a piece of foam backer rod to match the length. The backer rod is available in a variety of thicknesses; choose one that fits snugly into the gap. Place the backer rod into the gap, and press it as far as you can against the back of the gap with a screwdriver.
Pull the plunger on the caulking gun back, and drop the tube of caulk into the gun. Pull the trigger repeatedly until the plunger is tight against the back of the tube.
Cut off the bottom edge of the nozzle tip on the caulk tube with a utility knife. Make the cut at a degree angle. Insert a nail into the end of the nozzle to open it. Place the tip of the nozzle against the gap where you're going to begin applying the caulk. Slowly squeeze the trigger and pull the caulk gun down the length of the gap.Fabricjs responsive canvas
When the trigger is fully depressed, pull the nozzle away from the wall and release the trigger. Place the nozzle back at the point where you stopped, and begin applying the caulk again.
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Stopping Cracks Where Wall Meets Ceiling (With Pics)
About the Author Carson Barrett began writing professionally in Customer Service Newsroom Contacts.Stan Mack is a business writer specializing in finance, business ethics and human resources.
Mack studied philosophy and economics at the University of Memphis. Wood and drywall react differently to temperature and moisture changes. Wood may expand as seasons and weather change, but drywall may not.
Consequently, you need to fill any gaps between wood paneling and drywall with a caulk that will allow the two different materials to expand or contract without creating unsightly cracks. Then you can cover the gap with joint compound and paper drywall tape. The final product will be a smooth transition between wood paneling and drywall that will not crack over time.
Buy an acrylic silicone caulk.Power rule and product rule worksheet
Although other types of caulk or construction sealant may work, acrylic silicone caulk will adhere well to the wood surface and the chalky surface of the drywall. If you are unsure which product to buy, check the product packaging.
It will list the materials the caulk will and will not work with. Fill the gap with as much caulk as you can without letting any protrude from the gap. Use a caulking gun for best results. These are inexpensive metal braces that hold the tube of caulk and allow you to press a trigger to apply the caulk evenly and consistently. Use your finger or a narrow tool to press the caulk deep into the gap. The fuller the gap, the more likely the caulk will be able to maintain the integrity of the joint.
Embed paper drywall tape in joint compound over the drywall side of the joint. Lay a coat of joint compound over the joint on the drywall side, but not the wood side. Then apply a piece of paper drywall tape over the joint compound. The paper tape should butt up against the wood paneling but should not cover it.
Use a 6-inch drywall knife to wipe away the excess joint compound underneath the paper drywall tape.
Then apply a coat of joint compound over the top of the tape, hiding it. Allow the area to dry and then sand it smooth with grit sandpaper. It is now ready for paint.
If either the wood paneling or drywall is loose, the repair will fail. Firmly attach each to the wall, making sure there is no movement. Clean up spilled caulk immediately to avoid the hassle of dealing with dried caulk.
Pin Share Tweet Share Email. Things You'll Need Acrylic silicone caulk Caulking gun optional Joint compound Paper drywall tape 6-inch drywall knife grit sandpaper. Step 1.Log in or Sign up. Screwfix Community Forum. How to fill gap between tiles and ceiling previously suspended ceiling, now plastered Discussion in ' Builders' Talk ' started by AdamB99Jan 9, Tags: ceiling filler grout plastering tiling. Hi, I'm a new member so apologies if this is the wrong forum to be posting this.
I searched to see if there were any similar questions but couldn't find any Anyway, the overflow in the loft failed and caused a leak into the bathroom while I was away, causing the suspended ceiling to collapse.
Have ripped the ceiling down and got a plasterer in. However, there is now a 2cm gap between where tiles and the newly plastered ceiling. What would be the correct filler to use to fill in the gap? I assume grout wouldn't work in this instance due to ceiling movement and cause the grout to crack.
Thanks in advance. AdamB99Jan 9, Hi mate, any chance of a photo uploaded to see what's what? I don't understand how there's nearly an inch gap when there wasn't before. Was the old ceiling lath and plaster or something, did you previously have coving up and don't now? Jord86Jan 9, Joe95 likes this. If you've got white tiles, then you're laughing CGNJan 9, It's always easy pointing out the obvious after the cock up but,what's done is done so time to move on What's the condition of the wall like in this gap between tiles and ceiling?
Could prep as necessary and paint white to match ceiling But, it's always gonna look like the tiles have finished short. Think 10 mm would not notice but 20mm bit too noticeable So as above, finish with either upvc or timber trim, loads styles to choose from and cut down to size Or fit coving Or baton ceiling and skim again Or dbl skin PB and skim again Various options really.
CGN likes this. Explained to the customer that to overcome it would have taken a complete row of tiles 4 walls, large format which would also have meant cutting the top and bottom row, rather than starting with a full tile. Another option though it may or may not look cack, is to remove the top row of tiles all the way around your bathroom, and re-tile using a larger tile of a different colour or pattern, as a sort of border tile. But obviously depends on how it would look in the current design that you have.
Or mosaic tile border.Discussion in ' Plastering and Rendering ' started by planemad24 Jan If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you. Log in or Sign up. DIYnot Forums.
How to Fill a Gap Between the Wall & the Ceiling
Hi I have one room where the right angle between the wall and ceiling keep cracking. Before the wall was skimmed the crack was already there but the plasterer should have taped the crack before skimming looks to me like he did not. Over the past weeks the crack has reappeared. I want to repair this myself so that the crack does no reappear. Can anyone please advise me or point me in the right direction for filling this? Many Many Thanks in advance. That looks like a big crack.
Something is moving Even then I doubt you'll fully conceal it if it continues to expand and contract.Heeso qora
This is the "cracking" result of "not" taping or scrimming the joint. Are we talking solid walls or skimmed plasterboard? On the other side of the debate, non tapingsome argued that it wouldn't crack, but if it did, it could be filled in easily with decorators caulk To be honest, that broken area looks as though it was probably loose before it was plastered over.
Solid Wall, Plasterboard ceiling.
How to fix gap between ceiling and kitchen crown molding?
I can feel movement in the ceiling I can when pushing it. Shall I caulk up the crack then use gyproc easi fill to fill in. Or shall I find the joists in the loft and try to screw the boards up a bit more.View Full Version : How to terminate tile at ceiling.
I am just finishing up my shower install and my wife wanted me to go all the way to the ceiling. I am using 10" X 16" tiles sideways on the walls. My question is; how should I terminate the wall tile at the ceiling. If I test the last tile, I have a quarter inch gap left at the ceiling. Thanks Bill. Has the wall tile already been installed? Can you adjust your grout line to compensate? Are you using a base tile around the bottom? Is there a possibility of adding accents such as wainscotting to allow for cutting and a minimal gap?
What are you using on the ceiling? Would thre be a way to thicken the ceiling to compensate for the grout line? If you go tight against the ceiling will that result in tenting of the tile? It didn't take me but one tile job on my own to figure that out after wrestling with a very similar problem. Well, it sounds like I screwed up.Csgo fps boost config 2019
I found the first tile in the middle of the wall so that the horiz and vert seams would be centered in the recessed soap and shampoo etc holder 14X14" That worked well for the first tile row at the bottom and also looks great for the horiz center of the tiles. What I failed to think about was the ceiling. My choice is; 1. The ceiling is painted dry wall and would be hard to add any thickness to it. I thought about a decorative pattern too late! Any other thoughts? Thanks for your help Bill.
Not trying to make more work for you, but have you considered tiling the ceiling? You should be able to go right over the existing sheetrock. Tile the ceiling first and if anything you'll probably end up cutting a sliver off your top row of wall tile.Every homeowner is concerned with keeping their house protected from moisture and water damage.
Learn why not, and the best options for keeping water out of the cove joint by reading below. This joint, where your basement wall and floor meet, is known as a cove joint.Obs alpha mask
After your foundation footings are built, your basement walls are poured so that they slot into a keyway. This helps keep them properly aligned. When your walls have cured, the basement floor itself is then poured. This leaves a small gap between the floor and the walls — known as the cove joint. Following a heavy rain, ground water around your home will rise. It begins to push into any potential openings in your foundation.
This is typically referred to as hydrostatic pressure. It may seem like an obvious solution to simply seal the cove joint to prevent water from breaching into your home. In the short term, a sealant applied along this gap between your basement floor and wall may prevent leakage.Signs of cheating husband guilt
However, it will eventually fail in one of two ways:. The water being blocked by the sealant will find another gap in your foundation to enter the home. Typically, this will be cracks in your foundation. The sealant you used will be forced off or penetrated by the water. Once this happens, all the water will leak through the opening in your sealant, rendering it useless. Either of these events will happen due to the strength of the hydrostatic pressure.
When it meets with resistance, such as a sealant, it will work its way through or around that resistance. There are multiple approaches to keep this water from leaking into your basement :. A drain tile system is the most commonly recommended solution for leaky cove joints. This drain is installed underneath your basement floor. It reduces hydrostatic pressure and directs ground water away that would otherwise leak into your basement — like a gutter under your basement.
It connects to a sump pit to allow your sump pump to push the water out instead of letting it leak in through your cove joint. In some cases, drain tile piping can be made of clay.
The overall diameter ranges from just a few inches to over a foot. If something is preventing your home from being waterproofed from the inside, you can still protect your home from hydrostatic pressure. Professional waterproofing experts can install a waterproof membrane along the foundation walls.
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